So as you may see from the previous post that Tai's friend Katie Moore came into our lessons to give us some demos and to tell us a little bit about herself and her work. She created a beautiful black smokey eye and bright red lip editorial look and we had to recreate it.
I started off with my clients eyeshadow as black is one of those colours that has a lot of fall out and if its on foundation its a pain to remove i started of using a maybeline gel liner in black and i put it all over the lid using a small flat brush making sure all the lid was covered as it would be really stand out if you missed a slight bit. Once it was on the eye using a fluffy blending brush i started to start to blend up using circle motions to get rid of any harsh lines around the side as we want the eyeshadow to be seamless. Once i was happy with how my base was then i went in with a black eyeshadow from Urban Decay called black out and slightly packing on that product to set it and to give it more colour and again ensuring the edges are blended out using a clean Mac 224 brush.
To give the eyes bit more of edge to them i went underneath the lash line with a smaller flower tip brush and the same black shadow and ran it underneath and blended it out slightly as you still want the colour there and using the maybe line eyeliner i went slightly into the waterline this is just to make the eye deepen slightly. Once i was happy with the eyes and they was blended well i applied a slight bit of mascara to the top and bottom lashes.
Once the eyes was done i went in with the skin using Mac NC20 on the client she would of been a NC15 but she had fake tan on and we always want to match the face to the colour of the clients neck even if they are wearing fake tan. I applied the foundation all over the skin and using a powder brush and patting the product into the skin not only does this give you an amazing flawless coverage it also sets the product into the skin. Some people think by buffing the product into the skin you will create a nice finish to the skin this just moves the product around on the face and it doesn't set.
I wanted my client to have a quite heavy coverage skin so i applied a slight bit more than i usually would do and pat it into the skin.
I used Mac studio Sculpt concealer under the eyes, down the bridge of the nose, on the forehead and on the chin to highlight all the areas using a small fluffy powder brush i patted it into the skin.
Once the face was highlighted i set the areas with translucent powder to make sure theres no creasing.
Using Mac Dark tan bronzer i lightly bronzed up the face and contoured to give it more definition and colour to the skin i didn't want a really heavy contour i blended it out so it didn't look so fierce.
For highlight i used Mac's extra dimension highlight and slightly added it to the high points of the face such as cheek bones, nose and cupids bow.
Once everything was done the last thing i done was i went around the lips with a illamasqua red lipliner as we are using a red lipstick its known that red lipsticks bleed quite a lot this means it looks messy and gets everywhere without using a lipliner this just ensures that the lipstick doesn't smudge.
The only thing i had a problem is with the lipstick i find that using red lipstick gets everywhere and tai shown me how to correct this and making the lips look a lot neater by sharpening a lipliner really sharp and usingmy finger to really lift the lip up so you can really get in there to sharpen it up and make sure its all even.
Before and After
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